Our friend Greg Ellifretz, a master instructor in multiple self-defense/safety disciplines, postulates a good reason to have a few of those supposedly obsolete “service revolvers” handy for worst case scenarios.
Our friend Greg Ellifretz, a master instructor in multiple self-defense/safety disciplines, postulates a good reason to have a few of those supposedly obsolete “service revolvers” handy for worst case scenarios.
I have advised each of my nieces & nephews to obtain a good quality medium frame revolver & a supply of 38 special ammunition. It is last handgun likely to be banned in blue states or municipalities.
The man has a point, actually many points, about the revolver being a good base gun. But, let me qualify that a bit.
Nearly 40 years ago, I went to work for an entity that still used revolvers. We trained, and used them, hard. Compared to semi-auto pistols, they’re mechanically complex and don’t do well when abused. But, unless critical parts fail, they’ll often still work well enough “for government work.” When ours were worn beyond the capability of our factory trained armorers, they went back to the factory for rebuild. I do generally agree with the suggestion to go with a K frame or equivalent, or maybe an L frame. I’d strongly suggest double action only*.
The long trigger travel is really a good thing as it reduces the chances of an unintended discharge moment. The force needed to move the double action trigger can be an issue for some. But, revolvers have a 150 or so year history of “making them easier on the trigger” while still being less prone to ND/UD than many semi designs. The continual movement of the DA trigger seems to disrupt the sight picture less than other systems for many. The fact that the trigger’s moving seems to signal that they’re actually doing something.
One downside to revolvers is that many folks in retail know virtually nothing about them. Revolver competent gunsmiths don’t grow on trees either. Several years ago I rescued a used S&W K frame, I had permission to do a thorough inspection of it prior to purchase. I ended up with about half the sales staff watching me open the gun up and evaluate the mechanism. The foundation was good, but a lot of moving (wear) parts were worn or had been “improved” by someone and had to be replaced. It would still fire, but it wasn’t in spec.
[Yes, I got a good deal and it’s now in specification. But I’ve got some skills.]
*Either by design or modified by someone who’s a certified armorer on that product or known to be competent on that make/model.
Amazing point! I have always wondered why I have always shot revolvers better than most all of my auto’s. I prefer the safety and security of my S & W model 66 with speedloaders always on hand. I’ve just never read anyone explain why so well.
Excellent article.
Only thing I would add is that a single-action-ONLY revolver has another advantage.
In lieu of a “safety” switch, it requires user to first cock the hammer before pulling the trigger. The prospect of a negligent discharge with a SAO revolver is almost entirely eliminated. It’s not going to go off if something snags the trigger when re-holstering it. It’s not going to go off if an untrained person comes upon it and pulls the trigger.
Yes, it takes an extra step of training to tell a newbie to aim, cock the hammer, and pull the trigger. But that’s not much of an addition to the manual of arms for this SAO fire control. And the newbie doesn’t have to un-learn the manual of arms of a DA fire control system.
That needs explained to Alec Baldwin.
My first firearm (house gun-more accurately, studio apartment gun at the time) was a S&W 686 .357. Good for back country adventures now as well. With a 9mm as a primary, a couple of those J frames make great backups. Best plinker to date is a cowboy action .22 which is also a great starter for my son.
Stay well Mas.
In a post apocalyptic world, a .38 special cartridge can be loaded with a whole bunch of different powders. Make sure you have a collection of reloading manuals, some lead, a bullet mold, and plenty of primers. You’ll have working firearms and ammunition even in dire shortages.
Last year, I bought the first revolver I’ve owned in 40 years; a S&W Model 29. Shoots well with .44 special but kinda hurts with .44 magnum. The next was a Colt Python (4 1/4”) and the last one was a Colt King Cobra (2”). I shot the snubby so much I became pretty accurate (2-3” groups) at 15 yards. I even shot a local action pistol shoot with it and was knocking down 8” plates at 50 feet.
It got me thinking about a defensive shoot with one. Anything past 15 yards could almost earn me a murder charge, but using a snubby appears to be purely a defensive choice. Not many rogue shooters use a revolver so that could be favorable in front of a jury if I were ever charged for defending myself. Besides, how many truly defensive shooters stick around for a gun fight? My objective is to get the H-E-double-hockey-sticks out of there and a six shooter is hopefully enough to clear the path.
Yes, I have taken Mas’ classes (MAG-40/80) and always bring my Beretta 92 for the range portion, but mastering the revolver actually helps my semiauto skills. I’m much more thoughtful when pulling the trigger now. I have another local match this weekend. I think I’ll bring the Python this time. The semiauto wiz kids might beat me on the clock, but I ALWAYS hit the A zone when they accept penalties for D zone hits or even misses. When every bullet has a lawyer attached to it, I feel that attitude encourages recklessness even when in a controlled training environment.
Thoughts?
Maintenance is a factor, too. Imagine the fun a recolver guy has when a 1911 guy tries to find a spring which flied away during field strip in a jungle.
Good points.
Taurus 905 9mm revolver with TK clips and a CT laser grip. Cheap easy to find ammo. Swap two springs and polish if you want a trigger job. No high capacity issues, legal every where.
The Singapore Police Force have been using a variation of this but in .38 Spl for many years, only recently phasing in Glock 19s for front line officers.
Another plus is the ability to fire when pressed right up against a criminal.
All very good points. Having 11 revolvers of various length barrels, in 357, 22lr, 22 magnum, and 45acp. Got it covered
I shot a combat match with a century-old M&P. Those guns can still do good service.
I learned to shoot +30 years ago from a good friend that had been in an anti-terrorism unit. We shot 1911’s almost all the time. He carried his when he was in the service. But he always carried a revolver now that he was out. I asked him why and he said ‘I’m not on offense any more and many civilian shootings are at grappling distance. If I put my semi-auto muzzle in contact with the criminal I will only get one shot, but with a revolver, I can keep shooting.’
‘If I put my semi-auto muzzle in contact with the criminal I will only get one shot, but with a revolver, I can keep shooting.’
Why is that? Could you explain please?
njk
If I can speak for him, an automatic will surely jam because the muzzle being in contact, with the moving slide, it won’t be able to eject and/or go into battery after the first shot. A revolver has a fixed barrel and only the cylinder/trigger moves when used, and they aren’t in contact with the body of the criminal.
About a month or so ago, I was doing some comparisons between the recoil on the various revolver frame sizes. Now I’m talking about calculated recoil, not what you feel, but if you have properly sized stocks on the small revolvers, the result is a grip about the same size as the K frame.
My notes crawled off, but I was surprised at the calculated free recoil figures between a K frame, a 3 inch and a 2 inch J frame. All with steel frames. The 3 inch gun was 33.3% lighter, the 2 inch gun 37.7% lighter. But there wasn’t that much difference in calculated recoil. Then I looked again at the chronograph results and had to do a head slap. Less energy=less recoil.
Excellent article. Also, training a person to shoot on a cold range is one thing. Training them to shoot to save their lives, when under a very stressful attack, is something else. During stress, simple is better.
Jeff Cooper wrote that .357 Magnum is the minimum for bear. I find my snubnose revolvers easy to conceal in hot weather. I can even keep them concealed at 3 o’clock, with my shirt tucked in. With an untucked T-shirt, I can conceal two revolvers, on at 3 o’clock, and one at 9 o’clock.
I believe the same principle can apply to rifles. It’s great to have multiple semi-auto rifles, in the same caliber. It doesn’t hurt to have a bolt-action rifle, as a backup, in the same caliber. Two are one, and one is none.
It seemed to be about people unfamiliar with guns needing to use a gun.
When I read “worst case scenarios” I thought it was referring to social and economic breakdown. In which case it might be easier to make black-powder ammo for a revolver (but easier yet with a cap-and-ball revolver for which you might also be able to make the caps).
Another advantage with revolvers, because the cartridge doesn’t operate the action, is that it will accurately shoot a variety of ammo. I can load the revolver I carry in the woods with light-shooting snake loads, hollowpoint self-defense rounds, and/or heavy-duty solid penetrators, and they all go bang when needed.
The problem I have on the range, addressed in the article, is people who show up with a featherweight snubnose someone gifted or sold them. (Newby at the gun counter, “It’s small, it’s light, it’ll be easy to shoot.”) Firing fifty rounds for the Texas license practical is brutal, particularly for inexperienced shooters.
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