Backwoods Home Magazine

Subscribe to Backwoods Home Magazine
Or call us at
1-800-835-2418

Change of Address

Meet Dave Duffy, Annie Tuttle, and Sam Duffy at the Mother Earth News Fair, Puyallup, Washington. Click for Details..

Find Backwoods Home Magazine on Facebook

Features
 Home Page
 Current Issue
 Article Index
 Author Index
 Previous Issues
 Newsletter
 Letters
 Humor
 Free Stuff
 Feedback
 Recipes
 Tell-A-Friend
 Print Classifieds
 Radio Show

General Store
 Ordering Info
 Subscriptions
 Anthologies
 T-Shirts
 Books
 Back Issues
 Help Yourself
 All Specials
 Classified Ad

Advertise
 Web Site Ads
 Magazine Ads

BHM Blogs
 Behind The Scenes
 Massad Ayoob
 Ask Jackie Clay
 Claire Wolfe
 Where We Live
 Oliver Del Signore
 Bramblestitches
Retired Blogs
 David Lee
 Energy Questions

Quick Links
 Home Energy Info
 Jackie Clay
 Ask Jackie Online
 Dave Duffy
 Massad Ayoob
 John Silveira
 Claire Wolfe

Forum / Chat
 Forum/Chat Info
 Enter Forum
 Lost Password

More Features
 Links
 Country Moments
 Meet The Staff
 Contact Us/
 Change of Address
 Write For BHM
 Privacy Policy

News/Politics
 Dave Duffy
 John Silveira
 Columnists




Get Powered Up! Certified Energy Manager Jeff Yago answers your alternative energy questions



Wondering about a great new energy-saving device
you found on the Internet? Then CLICK HERE!


Sorry. Jeff no longer answers questions online.
This will remain as a searchable
resource for all BHM website visitors.
Previous:  
Next:  

Choosing a solar panel for maximum efficiency

Hello Jeff,

Putting together an off-grid system, I am inquiring as to how best choose/purchase the solar panels for optimal efficiency in relation to their voltage output. There are panels that put out similar wattage, however the vp/imp can vary greatly.

Let’s imagine for example the system objective is approximately 2kw using a 24v to 110v inverter with battery back-up.

Which would be the best solar panels to use for maximum efficiency?

* 12 – 160w panels @ 24vp/6.80imp
* 10 – 190w panels @ 26.7vp/7.12imp
* 10 – 190w panels @ 17.8vp/10.96imp
* 10 – 200w panels @ 53.8vp/3.16imp

Thanks!

Jon

Jon,

As we say on the web site, we cannot answer specific design questions because there are too many variables we would not know about your specific application, and we are trying to keep this a free service. However, I can provide some general answers that should help you narrow down your choices.

First, there are many things that go into the design process and the first is inverter input limits if grid tie, and solar charge controller input limits if battery based. In other words, if your solar charge controller has a limit of 75 volts DC input, this will require the number of solar modules wired in series to be well below this high limit. The NEC Article 690 provides more specific design guidelines related to safety multipliers that you must use.

The maximum input amp rating of the solar charge controller (or inverter if grid tie) will determine the maximum number of parallel strings and total amps from the array after the required NEC design multipliers are added.

Once you know the maximum voltage and maximum current your system can safely handle, this will define the solar array that your system can handle. Once you know this maximum total array wattage, you want to select the highest quality module you can buy that has the lowest cost per watt.

Take the total delivered price of a specific module and divide by nameplate wattage to get the $cost/watt.

If this process does not give you the solar array you want, then you will need to make changes to the inverter if grid tied, or the solar charge controller if a battery based system. Normally I first select the exact solar array wattage and physical size I want for a specific budget, then I select the inverter if grid tie, or the solar charge controller if battery based, but it sounds like you are working backwards and trying to base you design on comparing output voltages and amp ratings of the modules to fit a specific requirement.

In other words, its like taking a car and trying to replace the engine with a bigger engine to get more power. However, if you do not also upgrade the transmission, tires, drive shaft, fuel system, exhaust system, and brake system, then the vehicle cannot take advantage of the higher horsepower.

Hope this helps,

Jeff Yago

Comments are closed.

Have questions regarding this Blog? Please email us. Comments may appear online in "Feedback" or in the "Letters" section of Backwoods Home Magazine. We read every email you send us, but due to the sheer volume of mail we receive, we can't respond to each one.






Available now in the BHM Bookstore. Click cover for more information.











If you do business with one of our advertisers, please tell them you saw their ad on the Backwoods Home Magazine website.
Click Here for the Display advertisers who brought you the current issue of Backwoods Home Magazine
(PDF 3.33 MB)
Click Here for the Classified advertisers who brought you the current issue of Backwoods Home Magazine
(PDF 213 KB)

 
 
www.backwoodshome.com designed and maintained by Oliver Del Signore
© Copyright 1998 - Present by Backwoods Home Magazine